Africa 2019 Part 3

Day 5 and 6.

Day 5. Today we are leaving Karatu and heading to the Serengeti National Park.

Skirting the edge of the Ngorongoro crater we were able to stop at a vantage point to look back to the landscape we had visited.

We started to drive down from the high ground around the crater and descended to the flat lands of the Serengeti plains. On the way we passed some more Maasai villages.

Maasai along the route
Maasai villages along the route.
Small, medium and large!
The monument called ‘The Cradle of Man’ which commemorates the work done by Louis and Mary Leakey in discovering fossils of early mankind in this area.
Keith posing by the entrance to the Serengeti.
A Topi.
The plains seem to go on forever.
Our tented camp for the next three nights.

We arrived at our next accommodation which is a tent on the Serengeti plains. A very luxurious tent though with an en-suite toilet and shower. The shower though was a bag hoisted up a pole behind the tent. You had to ask for the water to be delivered as it had to be heated over the fire first. We also had to have a shower whilst it was still light as no one was allowed to wander through the camp after dark as there were many wild animals around.

Our tent.
Having a welcome beer after a dusty day driving to the camp.

Day 6. Start of our early morning game drives.

Sunrise at 06:00 am the next morning.
Lions guarding a wildebeest kill.

We stopped at this point to watch a pride of lions. They had a wildebeest kill and they were guarding it from the prowling hyenas in the background that wanted to steal it from them.

The lions would get up and move around but always leave two lions guarding their kill.

To get some shade they would even wander over and flop down under the Toyota.
These small deer would stand high up on the kopjes for a good vantage point.
Cheetah

Our next sighting was these two cheetahs which had obviously just fed.

Cheetah’s head covered in blood from where it had been feeding.

The cheetah fare very well in these large open plains which suits their high speed hunting style.

Further along we came upon this group of lions spread out amongst the rocks.
Hippo

We came upon a rather shallow pond and was amazed to see a hippo had taken up residence. He was even so obliging that he gave us a yawn.

More cheetah on the prowl in the grass.
Some more lions relaxing on some rocks.
The zebra loved to roll in the dust!
Evening and storm clouds rolling in on the Serengeti.
Wart Hog.

Photography and other advice for safari.

NOVEMBER. 17, 2019

The Serengeti, Tanzania

Going on a safari was a new experience for me so before leaving I did ask for some advice on what best to take etc on a couple of photography club Facebook groups. Whilst I did get some useful information such as ‘don’t fall out of the jeep’ and ‘hold on to your camera’ it was more equipment advice I was after.

Now I’ve completed 5 whole days of travelling through Northern Tanzania I thought I’d just put together my thoughts on it.

I organised the trip so that we were there at the beginning of November to try to catch the start of the rains. This brings on the grass so the animals are on the move. This in turn brings the predators that follow the herds. All done so we would hopefully catch the photos of the big herds on the plains and those close ups of the big cats.

The animals get very close sometimes. We had to pull over to let an elephant pass.
This is where the 12-60 lens came into its own!

Route.

We followed a route from Arusha, over to Lake Manyara National Park on the first day. Second day was taken up with a long day driving round the Ngorogoro Crater Park which in fact is a volcanic caldera. This was followed by moving on to a tented camp situated right on the Serengeti, for the next 3 days. Being situated right in the Serengeti meant we had maximised our time actually viewing animals without taking time driving to and from the park area. Up at 05:30 for breakfast and set off in the Land cruiser at 07:00 straight into where its all happening. The accommodation in the luxury tents with en-suite toilet and shower was very good and the food in the camp was exceptional.

The tents at the Kati Kati bush camp.
Lake Manyara from the air. This was the location of our first day on safari. This was taken a few days later whilst flying over the lake on our way to the island of Zanzibar.
The Ngorogoro caldera. Taken from the air whilst flying over to Zanzibar a few days later.
Our guide, Alfred, purchasing some red bananas on the way to our destination. I nicknamed him King Alfred the Great due to his knowledge of the flora and fauna. He found this highly amusing.

Vehicle and guide.

We booked our safari as part of an overall holiday package through a company called Audley Travel which we’ve used a few times before. Our guide, who is a Massai had an encyclopaedic knowledge of flora and fauna of the area and certainly made the trip for us and was well worth the tip we gave him at the end of the 5 days. The vehicle he used was a Toyota Land Cruiser. Very comfortable and with 6 seats in the back, although there was only 4 of us. It had a roof which raised up so you could stand up and look out. You could stand on the seats (shoes off) and get a higher perspective. Generally I found the people of Tanzania some of the most friendly I’ve come across in the world.

Clothing.

So, what to wear. It’s hot but there are also some tsetse flies in some areas so it’s best to wear lightweight long trousers. Zip offs are best so you can convert to shorts when needed. Also wear lightweight long sleeved shirts. At times you will be standing on the seats of the vehicle to get a better view through the raised roof and as they don’t like shoes on the seats, wear slip off shoes, they are easily put on and off quickly. I was wearing easily removed Keen sandals with socks. Not a very cool look but I was hoping the socks would prevent some bites (they didn’t).

Biting things (other than big cats).

There aren’t many of the tsetses about but they can give a nasty bite as I know as one bit right through my socks. Tsetses can also carry African trypanosomiasis, also known as sleeping sickness so its best to avoid getting bitten. On the subject of bites, make sure you’re taking your anti malaria tablets too as there are mosquitos about in the wet areas.

I called this photo 'band of brothers'. It was 5 large male lions (one out of shot) walking toward us across the Serengeti.

Photography equipment.

Firstly, I thought, correctly that there was going to be a lot of dust kicking up on the Serengeti. So I decided to invest in a second camera body which would accept my existing Micro Four Thirds system lenses. This meant that I need not be changing lenses in that dusty environment. I use a Lumix GX8 so I purchased an Olympus OM-D E-M1 body second hand from the MPB Web site. At £285 it was an acceptable add on cost to the holiday.

Close up of baboons grooming.

One aspect of this trip was that I wasn’t sure of the best lenses to take as I want sure how close, or far away the animals would be. I understand that it is a difficult one as no one knows what is going to happen when working with animals. I settled on taking two prime lenses, which I didn’t use much and two zoom lenses, a 12-60mm and a 100-300mm. The two zoom lenses were the ones I used most as they covered most eventualities.

Wildebeest.

I also took my Gorillapod but it turned out that it was best to be able to move freely and in any case, there wasn’t anywhere I could actually wind it round the roof structure of the Land Cruiser.

Wart Hog

One thing I forgot to take was a blower brush. That would have been a good accessory to help in cleaning the dust off the cameras at the end of the day. The do get very dusty in the vehicle.

So, a blower brush and a couple of cleaning cloths are worth having.

It’s probably best to take a couple of spare memory cards too as you are sure to take a lot more photos than you think. When you are close to an animal it may not be adopting the best pose so you tend to just keep shooting in the hope of capturing just that moment when the head turns to get that profile or the direct stare from the eyes.

Cheetah with it's kill, a Thompsons Gazelle.
A cheetah with blood dripping from it's mouth after eating a recent kill.

A good camera bag is worth having but be prepared for it to get very grubby and need a good clean up at the end of the safari. The vehicle we had was very well equipped with places to slot your camera in between shots. There was a trough in front of me with some padded bags so you could place one camera safely there and a suspended bag slung over the back of the font seats with compartments in which would accept a camera fitted with a zoom lens.

Two giraffe sparing under a tree.

The vehicle was also equipped with an inverter and power sockets to charge batteries though I didn’t use that as I had plenty of spares.

Africa 2019 Part 4

Day 7 and 8.

Day 7 – The Serengeti.

An early start again. Getting up at 05:30. But is it worth it, you bet, and this from someone who isn’t a morning person. Away from camp by 7 after getting our packed lunch from the guys at the camp.

This is a great camp. The tent is great with an en-suite toilet and shower. The food was great and everyone was so cheerful.

Early morning and we spotted (excuse the pun) some spotted hyena.
This lion had just been drinking out of the stream and had water dripping from his mouth.
I was very lucky to get this shot of a lion jumping a stream.
A Pied Avocet.
Reaching for the most succulent parts of the tree!

Two Giraffe sparing.

On the kopje (Dutch word for a small hill. Pronounced as ‘copy’)

Kopje Cats!

The Team!

Such a beautiful country!

Wildebeest.

More lions up trees!

Wildebeest.

black rhino

Wildebeest and in the distance, just below the kopje is a black rhino, The black rhino has been poached almost to extinction so we were very lucky to see one. We actually ended up seeing three!

Ostrich.

A kopje. It’s amazing how, in such a flat landscape you suddenly come across one of these outcrops of rock!

Leopard.

One of the most elusive big cats, the leopard. Seen here up a tree with it’s kill of a baby zebra. You can just see the stripes of the zebra on the right of the photo.

Crocodile.

The last morning looking out of our tent. It’s been a fantastic few days!

Day 8 – Leaving the Serengeti.

I think I can say that we were all sad at the prospect of leaving this fantastic place but we are starting a new adventure on the spice island of Zanzibar. We’re flying out of a dirt airstrip on the Serengeti on a direct flight to Zanzibar International airport. This small Cessna Caravan is about a 12 seater and we have had a 15kg luggage limit on this leg of the journey. It was though a great part of the trip as we got to fly over, at a low altitude, all the areas of the Ngorongoro and Serengeti that we had been driving round.

Heading out to the plane on the dirt airstrip on the Serengeti.

Flying over the rim of the Ngorongoro crater.

Flying over Lake Manyara where we were a few days ago.

Leaving the coast of mainland Tanzania behind and heading toward our next adventure on the spice island of Zanzibar.


Africa 2019 Part 2

Day 3 and 4.

Day 1 and 2 were spent flying out to Tanzania from London Heathrow.

We landed at Killimanjaro and were picked up by our driver who took us to our first lodgings at River Trees Lodge just outside Arusha.

Our room at Rivertrees Lodge, Arusha.
Rivertrees Lodge
Ants. Emerging from the undergrowth and then forming a long line part way across the path to then disappear underground. Fascinating!
Loading up the Toyota in Arusha.

Early Sunday morning saw us picked up from Rivertrees Lodge in Arusha by our driver, Alfred.

Alfred was to spend the next 6 days driving us round, firstly the Lake Manyara National Park, followed by the Ngorongoro Crater and then The Serengeti Park.

Photos taken from the Toyota whilst driving through the towns on the way to our next lodgings at the Ngorongoro Farmhouse Lodge.
Alfred purchasing us some red bananas to eat on the journey, delicious!

Day 3 – Lake Manyara Park.

Lake Manyara is a shallow alkaline lake at the base of the western stretches of the Rift Valley Escarpment and is known for it’s elephant and tree climbing lions.

A lion up a tree in Lake Manyara National Park.
We had to pull over to let the elephants through!
Baboons in Manyara.
A Monitor Lizard.
A Goliath Heron.
An Egret with a Black Heron in front of it. The Black Heron is also known as the Umbrella Bird due to it’s feeding habit. It walks into an area of shallow water, opens it’s wings to form an umbrella shape. Fish move into the shade formed by the birds wings and become prey for the bird.

Day 4 – Ngorongoro Crater.

An early start and we set off for the Ngorongoro Crater. But first Alfred took us north east, skirting the rim of the crater to visit a Massai village. He had chosen a village which isn’t on the normal route so we could have a more authentic experience.

The Ngorongoro National Park. The area circled in red just below the crater is where we were staying.
Our room at the Ngorongoro Farmhouse Lodge.
The route from the lodge up round, skirting the south east side of the crater to the Massai village.
Massai villagers with their cattle.
A Massai woman.
Massai child.

Leaving the village we then traced our route back and descended into the crater itself. Ngorongoro is the worlds largest, inactive, intact and unfilled volcanic caldera. It is 2000 feet deep and covers a 100 square miles.

Blue-Breasted Bee-Eater.
Four of a group of five lions walking toward us in the Ngorongoro Crater.
Black Kite.
Black Kite.
Grant’s Gazelle.
Zebra and Warthog.
Zebra having a dust bath!
Crowned Crane.
A zebra crossing!
Water Buck.
Hippos.
Elephants on the Ngorongoro Crater.
Crowned Cranes in flight.
Wildebeest.
Wildebeest

Africa 2019 Part 1

Stuck at an airport

Being on a flight to Tanzania, Africa recently we had to have a stop over in Qatar.

Having some time to kill we were looking for something to do whilst we waited for our ongoing flight. As we had an internal flight in Africa on a small plane our luggage allowance was only 15 kg so a bit of shopping was out of the question.

Hamad International Airport in Doha though is one of those interesting airports with much to photograph what with interesting shapes and reflections so it proved an interesting place for some photography.

Great reflections in the floor!
Some areas seemed to be deserted. Wonderful colour and light though!